Orange is not my color (1/3)

The logic behind the colors that look good on us and how to get away with those that don’t. Part 1: VALUE

This is an article in three parts (to make it more digestible). Part 2 will cover intensity and part 3 will cover hue.

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As I learned more and more about color, I grew curious about makes certain colors flattering to some and unflattering to others.

In a nutshell, we look better in colors — more specifically values, intensities and hues — that relate to those already present on our face and body. These colors seem to harmonise with us. We shine and look healthy in them.

When we drastically move away from them, not only harmony is reduced, but color relativity can play tricks on us and make us look like the living dead or freshly squeezed orange juice.

But no worries, there are a few tricks to get away with a wider array of colors than those we were born with.

Value and value contrast

Value refers to how dark or light a color is. Though it might not be the first property of color we think of, it makes a significant difference in the closet world.

Switch your vision to “greyscale” and pay attention to your body, particularly the head area — what we look and want to first look at. The skin, hair, irises, eyelashes, eyebrows, beard if applicable, white of the eyes, lips, teeth, will range from white (think 100% white hair) to black. And no, teeth are not pure white unless you have taken whitening too far.

Echoing our individual values, particularly the most visible ones, on our clothes will create consistency with the body and face. The eye, which likes to find similarities, will relate one to the other in a pleasant way.

Additionally, when using more than one value on our clothing (think patterns or a different color for top and pants), picking colors close to our values will ensure a value contrast that will harmonise with our own.

Figure 1. Low and gentle light-dark contrast on the left. High and stark contrast on the right. What looks good on one doesn’t necessarily make the other shine.

A few notes

1. Pure white is common on the shopping racks. But depending on one’s values and their contrast, it might be just too light and sharp. A pearl grey, off-white, cream or nude color close to one’s complexion can be more flattering to many than nuclear white.
2. People of very high contrast (ex: pale skin with very dark hair, or very dark skin) will not only look great in stark black and white, but will also handle powerful, bold colors independently of value. These will also match the strength of their light-dark contrast. More details in the chapter that covers intensity.
3. You might have Martin Scorsese eyebrows a.k.a light hair (white, blonde or dyed) and the darkest, furriest of eyebrows. You can then handle both black, echoing the eyes area, and pale ones, which will relate to your hair.

What happens when we wear dissimilar values and contrasts?

Best case scenario, our clothes can look flat and lifeless. Worst case scenario, we can look flat and lifeless. (See Figure 1, second and third columns).

Color in all its attributes — including value — is not fixed. A color may appear jet black until an even darker black is placed next to it, dulling the first one. A light-dark contrast will appear visible until a much stronger contrast is created next to it, outshining the original one.

Similarly, when a person of only light and medium values wants to look “less dull” by grabbing a black t-shirt, the result is actually the opposite. The delicate contrasts are overpowered and diminished. The black t-shirt steals the show and we look like we could use some sunshine.

I don’t care, I still want it

We might just really like black. It brings out our blonde hair. Or we have a very bold personality and strong light-dark contrast just goes with it. A few tricks, particularly for those of softer values and contrasts:

• If you wear make-up, add some value contrast or saturation to the lips, eyelashes and/or eyebrows.
• If you wear glasses, use a darker frame to bring the attention back to the face.

• Wear the garment of dissonant value far away from your face. Pants or shoes are good choices.
• Create a “gradient”: include intermediary values in your clothes to break the harshness of high value contrast.
• If you have strong light-dark contrast but don’t like bold contrasts, add small elements of value contrast (belt, shoes, bag) instead of going for a top-bottom or big pattern contrast.
• Or… just go for it. And maybe consider using intensities and hues that relate to you, as explained in the next sections. Two out of three is still pretty good.